“Where were the gowns?” asked a first-timer at Zac Posen’s show tonight. Red carpet fare is Posen’s claim to fame; he had Katie Holmes, Jennifer Hudson, and newcomer Odeya Rush dressed to the nines in the front row to remind us.
But on the runway, the event dresses went missing. “There are 50 gowns in the showroom,” Posen reassured us backstage.
The designer has been keen to diversify lately, shifting attention to his more relaxed evening attire and daywear.
You’re never going to see a tracksuit chez Posen, but he had plenty of tailored pantsuits this season. They came in a substantial wool flannel, and in deep jewel shades with conspicuous buttons. Think gala luncheon, not board meeting.
The collection was divided into three categories, which Posen intermingled on the catwalk. In addition to the colorful suiting, there was a large group of black draped silk dresses.
They twisted around the torso, fluttered at the shoulders, and fell to mid-calf in asymmetrical, paneled hems.
A few were trimmed in glinting jet beads; and Posen layered one over a pair of loose-fitting trousers. By the end, these felt repetitive, but they proved his point: He knows his way around more than a corseted dress.
The most unexpected part of the show were the Liberty-print cotton frocks. In the past, informal clothes haven’t come naturally to Posen, who has always had a flair for the dramatic. But he did his darndest here to inject these dresses with a summery breeziness. The collection ships in the summer, so it was a savvy move.
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